The 2008 Voyages of Nordic Light

The Long Push for Home

2008-08-23T14:00:00.001-07:00

We elected to go all the way home on Monday. Something about sleeping in your own bed sounded good after being out for nearly three weeks. It's 81 nautical miles from Frankfort to Whitehall and took us 12 hours of motoring. We started to see fog again as we got to whitehall but it cleared off as soon as we entered the channel.

The White Lake light looked really good that evening.

Frankfort to Whitehall

2008-08-23T13:52:00.000-07:00

What a view! Any time there is that much wind out of the northwest the lake tends to "turn over" and the cold water comes to the surface. than coupled with the temperature means fog and we had it heading out of Frankfort Monday morning.

Fortunatly the fog cleared about an hour out of Frankfort. The water temperature went from a brisk 39.2 degrees to a balmy 45 degrees. When it was foggy you could still look up and see blue sky. It stayed clear most of the day as we motored and motor sailed south toward Whitehall.

2008-08-23T13:38:00.000-07:00

We docked at the Frankfort Municipal Marina at 2:30 on Thursday the 8th. It was a short but rough day coming down from Leeland. The boat can handle it but it puts a bit of stress on the capitan and crew.

We were docked down at the quiet end of the marina next to Set Free out of Holland. We got to know John and Linda over the next several days as we were both waiting out the weather for an opportunity to head down the lake.

On Saturday the NOAA forecast was for northwest winds 25-30 knots with waves 3-6 feet and "impressive eight footers". They were recommending all recreational boaters just stay off the lake on Saturday and Sunday. We didn't need to be told twice and spent a quite weekend in Frankfort.

Point Betsy

2008-08-23T13:32:00.000-07:00

The wind had been freshening most of the afternoon and shifting more northwest. By the time we got to Point Betsy it was in the 18-22 range with higher gusts. Our original plan was to head down to Arcadia which is 11 nautical miles south of Frankfort and a much smaller harbor. With the winds and building seas we made a command decision to make way to Frankfort.

We dropped the sails just off Point Betsy and motored into the Frankfort harbor.

Sailing for Frankfort

2008-08-23T13:16:00.000-07:00

Sailing under a reefed main and small jib on a screaming beam reach. 15-20 knots of wind and 3-5' seas. NOAA broadcast a special marine warning. Waterspouts had been sighted 5 miles offshore near Holland. Fortunately Holland was several hundred miles south of our current position.

Leeland to Frankfort

2008-08-23T13:08:00.000-07:00

We woke to a blustery north west wind of 10 - 15 knots. It was blowing us right onto the tiny dock we were rafted on and raised some concerns about getting away cleanly. We went into town for breakfast and at 10:00 decided that we would shove off for Frankfort.

You know people are concerned when they ask you if your insurance is current. One of the boats we were rafted off did just that. We put the first reef in the main and pushed off cleanly. Once out of the harbor we raised the main and pulled out a small jib and headed south.

Leeland Harbor

2008-08-23T12:59:00.001-07:00

Leeland is a harbor of refuge and the only stop between Charlevoix and Frankfort unless you head into Grand Traverse Bay. As such they will always find a way to accomadate you in the marina. We ended up rafted off the end of one of the slips blocking two other sailboats in. If you go to Leeland you have to expect this.

There were storms brewing west over the lake that evening and it around sunset it looked pretty ominous. We got a little wind and some rain but nothing we couldn't deal with.

The Grand Traverse Light

2008-08-23T12:54:00.001-07:00

The Grand Traverse Light sits at the end of the Leelanau Peninsula at the south point of the bay. It is an active light and also a weather reporting station.

Off for Leeland

2008-08-23T12:45:00.001-07:00

We slept in a little in Charlevoix then went out for breakfast at the Harbor View diner. It's a nice spot for breakfast or a light lunch. We got underway in time to make the 10:00 bridge. The winds were light from the west-southwest so we motor sailed with the main down to Leeland.

The Return to Charlevoix

2008-08-23T12:40:00.001-07:00

We made the 3:00 bridge into Charlevoix without the Beaver Island Ferry following us. It was just under an 8 hour trip down from St. Ignace half under power and half sailing. We took on fuel then tied up for the night at the Charlevoix City Marina.

Old Gray's Reef

2008-08-23T12:31:00.001-07:00

We passed the Old Gray's Reef light at 10:45. We cut the corner a little at Gray's based on what we saw on the charts. We watched the depth sounder and saw as little as 14' of water over some spots on the reef. Once we turned the corner it quickly dropped to over 100' and a breeze came up from the west. We started motor sailing but ended up under sail alone making 6.5 knots in flat water. We followed this cutter down to Charlevoix. They were coming back from the North Channel.

Leaving The Straights of Mackinaw

2008-08-23T12:26:00.000-07:00

We left St. Ignace early Tuesday with the sun coming up behind us. There was no wind for sailing so we steamed west with two other boats following along. The three of us motored off to Gray's Reef.

Off for Charlevoix

2008-08-23T12:18:00.000-07:00

We spent a quiet Monday in St. Ignace. Dogs are popular crew members on lots of boats and they seem to love to take dinghy rides.

Mackinac Island Scenes

2008-08-23T12:04:00.001-07:00

No cars or trucks are allowed on the island so everything moves by either bicycle, horse, or on foot. The island has a little something for everyone. You can take a carriage ride, rent a bike, walk until your feet hurt, buy a tee shirt or pick up some Mackinac Island Fudge. There is lots to see too. The flowers are wonderful to look at, you can climb up to the old fort, the Victorian architecture is great, you can visit the Grand Hotel or you can just spend the day people watching. So much fudge and so little time..

Mackinac Island Harbor

2008-08-23T11:53:00.000-07:00

The Mackinac Island Harbor is very picturesque, it's also very busy. It's the busiest recreational boating stop over on the great lakes. There are also 4 or five ferry lines coming and going with tourists all day. We could have brought the boat over and stayed there but elected to go with the peace and quite in St. Ignace.

A day trip to Macknac Island

2008-08-23T11:43:00.000-07:00

After a long day Saturday we decided to leave the boat at the dock and let the Arnold Line take us over to the Island. It's a short trip from St. Ignace and the views of the island are great. It was a clear sunny day with light winds and a great ride over.

St. Ignace Harbor

2008-08-10T10:23:00.000-07:00

We turned to the north and sailed up to St. Ignace. We were officially in Lake Huron now. At 17:00 hours we tied up at the St. Ignace Municipal Marina. It's a nice quiet marina right on the lake with a great view of Mackinac Island. We laid over in St. Ignace for 2 days.

Mackinac Bridge

2008-08-10T10:13:00.000-07:00

We sailed her under the bridge at 16:00 hours. It's an awesome sight going under and even better looking back astern.

Sailing in the Straits of Macknac

2008-08-10T10:09:00.000-07:00

We motor-sailed east, jibing a couple of times to keep off the wind a little. It was blowing 10-12 knots but directly behind us. Our boat needs to be about 30 degrees off the wind to be comfortable. We were making 7 knots but couldn't quite head in the exact direction we wanted to. Our goal was to pass under the bridge under full sail. It was a nice warm sunny day, which isn't always the case up there.

First sight of the bridge

2008-08-10T10:01:00.000-07:00

After passing through the channel at Gray's Reef, we turned to the east ready to take advantage of that north wind we'd been fighting on the way up. But the wind doesn't work that way through the Straits of Mackinac and it took a right turn too. It's 20 miles from the turn at Gray's to the bridge and we sighted her first at 13:20 hours. It's truly a magnificent structure. I was in first grade when they started building her and have crossed her many times.

The Gray's Reef Channel

2008-08-10T09:54:00.000-07:00

Gray's Reef is a shoal that extends off the northern tip of lower Michigan and runs west to the northern end of Dorr County Wisconsin.

Dorr County forms the eastern side of Green Bay. Beaver Island is part of this shoal area. Most of southern Lake Michigan is well over 100' deep, but Gray's has some areas less than 10'. The channel through Gray's is marked to the west by the lighthouse and to the east by channel buoys. Commercial traffic going up and down the lake must use this channel. We can shave off a little bit, but have to be careful not to do too much. The channel depth is around 40'. This was one of the commercial freighters we saw heading down the lake.

Northern Lake Michigan

2008-08-10T09:49:00.000-07:00

We sighted the light at Gray's Reef around 13:00 hours. The log entry was steering a course of 026 at 6.1 knots under M&M (Mainsail and Motor). Most folks don't realize that much of the time we travel is done using the engine and, if the wind is right, a sail or two to assist it. It seems that we always find the wind in our face.

Moving Along Nicely

2008-08-10T09:43:00.000-07:00

We had winds on the nose from the north at about 9 knots with 1-3' seas and clear skies. Just the right angle and wave height to do throw up a little spray.

The Beaver Island Ferry

2008-08-10T09:39:00.000-07:00

OK we know the Emerald Isle runs to Beaver Island and back from Charlevoix, but we led it in the other day and now it's following us under the drawbridge and out the channel.

Leaving Lake Charlevoix

2008-08-10T09:37:00.000-07:00

Out of Lake Charlevoix into Round Lake

A Quiet Morning

2008-08-10T09:35:00.000-07:00

It was quiet and overcast on the morning of August 2nd as we left Northwest Marine and Charlevoix bound for the Straits of Mackinac.

The Captain and Crew

2008-08-09T12:38:00.000-07:00

Here we are in Charlevoix. We were close to the Harbormaster's office, but also close to the fountain where the kids get to play. They played music from a radio station all day while the kids ran around in the fountain. It wouldn't have been bad except they didn't turn off the fountain or music until around midnight.

On Tuesday we had to move out of the municipal and down to Northwest Marine harbor. We picked up a rental car and drove back home for a three-day break. Bruce went into the office and took care of some business and Joan tended to the garden and house. We were back in Charlevoix on August 1st and ready to begin the second phase of our trip.

Charlevoix Street Scenes

2008-08-09T12:36:00.000-07:00

The park at the city marina and a downtown street scene in Charlevoix.

Charlevoix Scenes

2008-08-09T12:34:00.000-07:00

It's nice to get off the boat and walk around Charlevoix. The beach is great and there are always lots of flowers.

Just a Small Boat in the Harbor

2008-08-09T12:32:00.000-07:00

This boat ended all the arguments about who had the biggest boat in the marina. Rumor had it that it belonged to Ivana Trump but no one could confirm it. It was 147 feet long. Bigger than the Beaver Island Ferry. I'm glad I didn't have to pay to refuel her.

Docked in Charlevoix

2008-08-09T12:31:00.000-07:00

We tied up in the Charlevoix City Marina for what we hoped would be a couple of quiet nights.

Coming into Charlevoix

2008-08-09T12:26:00.000-07:00

We made the 7:30 bridge into Charlevoix after 9-1/2 hours and 63 nautical miles. Definitely a long day. The Emerald Isle, also known as the Beaver Island Ferry, followed us into the harbor.

The South Manitou Light

2008-08-09T12:24:00.000-07:00

The more we sail on the Great Lakes, the more we understand that you never really know what you're going to get. The wind started to drop off as we entered the Manitou Passage and by the time we got the the North Manitou Light it was light and almost dead behind us.

Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore

2008-08-09T12:21:00.000-07:00

It was blowing pretty good out of the west-northwest when we left Frankfort. We had the first reef in the mainsail and about 1/3 of the jib out. The skipper got a little wet on the beat up to Point Betsie.

The Frankfort Harbor Entrance

2008-08-09T12:17:00.000-07:00

We spent two nights in Frankfort. After the sail up on Friday, we needed a break. We stayed in Jacobson's Marina. The place was packed and we ended up outside on the seawall. We had a couple of rocky nights thanks to the old Frankfort Harbor surge. By Sunday we were ready to head on out again, this time for a long run up to Charlevoix.

Big Sable Point

2008-08-09T12:14:00.000-07:00

We made good time to the Big Sable Light then a small course adjustment to the Northeast and on into Frankfort.

Heavy Seas

2008-08-09T12:08:00.000-07:00

The next day we were off for Frankfort in some rather blustery conditions. Wind was from the southwest and built to 20-25 knots. Waves were 3 - 5 feet and we flew along at an average speed of 6.6 knots for 45 nautical miles. No, I didn't stand up and point the camera down, the waves were really that big!

Ludington Harbor Light

2008-08-09T12:05:00.000-07:00

The Ludington Harbor Light is a welcome site after a six and a half hour motor boat ride in a sailboat. We stayed in Ludington at the Municipal Marina for the night. If you're ever there we can recommend Steamers for dinner. Good food and service with a view of the marina.

The Little Sable Light

2008-08-09T12:03:00.000-07:00

The Little Sable Light is the first landmark on the trip north. Too bad their wasn't enough wind to sail. Onward to Ludington though.

The Old White Lake Light

2008-08-09T11:58:00.001-07:00

The old White Lake light. Good to see when heading out and even better when coming home.

Out the Channel to Lake Michigan

2008-08-01T11:51:00.000-07:00

We motored up White Lake to Lake Michigan on a clear day with very little wind.

Heading West in the Morning Sun

2008-07-31T11:47:00.000-07:00

On Thursday July 24, 2008 we set sail on our annual cruise. When we sail we have hopes of making it to certain destinations at certain times but when sailing you are at the mercy of the weather which is why we have hopes not plans. This year we hoped to make the Straits of Mackinac and upper Lake Huron.